9 13 

no4 




oeoa 




A short historjj of their produclion and use. 




Dorchester, Mass. 

'Walter'BaTier& Co. IJmilocI. 




Class __113_16Z 
Book -SlL 



e)04 



COPVRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



see. 



Cocoa and Chocolate 



A short history of their 
production and use 



With numerous illustrations of the Cocoa Tree and its products ; and of Walter 

Baker & Co.'s manufactory, the oldest and largest establishment 

of its kind on this continent 




DORCHESTER, MASS. 

Walter Baker & Co. Limited 
1904 



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Copyright, igo4, 
By Walter Baker & Company Ltd. 




PREFATORY NOTE. 



THIS publication is made up in part of original matter and in part 
of matter reprinted from three of our previous publications, now 
out of print, namely : " Cocoa and Chocolate : A Short History 
of Their Production and Use," — a i2mo of 152 pages, published in 
1886; "The Chocolate Plant and Its Products,"— a small 4to of 40 
pages, published in 1891 ; and " Cocoa and Chocolate : A Short His- 
tory of Their Production and Use," a quarto of 72 pages, first printed 
in 1899 and reprinted in 1901. Copies of them can be found in many 
of the public and school libraries in the United States. 

We have included in this work some, new views of our mills and 
workrooms, and also some engravings from photographs taken in the 
West Indies and in Ceylon, showing the present methods of gathering 
and curinti the fruit of the cocoa tree. 

x\s even the standard dictionaries fail to give the exact meanings of 
the words " cocoa" and " chocolate," we give here an accurate defini- 
tion of those terms : — 

Cocoa. — The commercial name given (i) to the seeds of the small tropical 
tree known to botanists as Theobroma Cacao: (2) to the cracked or coarsely 
ground product of the roasted seeds, sometimes designated more particularly as 
"cocoa nibs," or "cracked cocoa " ; (3) to the finely pulverized product of the 
roasted seeds from which a portion of the fat has been removed, sometimes des- 
ignated as "breakfast cocoa" or "powdered cocoa." 

Chocolate. — (i ) The solid or plastic mass produced by grinding to fineness 
the kernel of the roasted seeds of Theabrotna Cacao without removing any of the 
fat, sometimes called "plain chocolate " or "bitter chocolate"; (2) the same 
product to which have been added sugar and various flavoring substances, some- 
times known as " sweet chocolate " or " vanilla chocolate." 

WALTER BAKER & CO. Ltd. 




REGISTERED TRADE-MARK. 

WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD 

[Copied from Lioiard's famous painting of " La Belle C/iocolatiire,' 
in the Dresden Gallery. \ 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



I. 

PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION. 

DURING the last twenty-five years the consumption of cocoa in 
various forms has increased to an extraordinary extent not 
onl}^ in this country, but in the United Kingdom and Germany 
— countries in which the greatest progress is being made in the science 
of nutrition, and in the inventions which have done so much to cheapen 
the cost and improve the quahty of articles of food. This increase in 
consumption is due to several causes, among the most prominent of 
which are (i) a reduction in the retail price, bringing it within the 
means of the poorer classes; (2) a more general recognition of the 
value of cocoa as an article of food, and (3) improvements in methods 
of preparation, by which it is adapted to the wants of the different 
classes of consumers. 

There is no doubt that, if it had not been for the monopoly of the 
production which Spain long possessed, and which kept the price, on 
its introduction into England, at a point where only the rich could 
afford to buy it, cocoa would have come into as general use there as it 
did in Spain, and would, perhaps, have been received with more favor 
than tea or coffee, which were introduced about the same time. 

It appears that, in the time of Charles II., the price of the best 
chocolate (ver}'^ crude undoubtedly, as compared with the present 
manufactures) was 6s. 8d. a pound, which, if we take into account the 
greater purchasing power of money at that time, would be equal to at 
least $5.00 a pound at this time for a very coarse article. 

Humboldt estimated the consumption of cocoa in Europe, in 1806, 
as 23,000,000 pounds per annum, of which from 6,000,000 to 9,000,000 
were supposed to be consumed in Spain. The estimated consumption 
in Europe at the present time is over 170,000,000 pounds. 

7 



8 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 

A recent estimate of the total amount of crude cocoa exported from 
the tropical regions in which it is grown, based partly on official figures 
and partly on expert estimates, is about 252,000,000 pounds per annum. 
Guayaquil, Ecuador, heads the list of exports with about 48,500,000 
pounds. The African crop has been greatly developed within a few 
years, and now amounts to over 47,000,000 pounds. Brazil comes 
next with about 35,000,000 pounds. The British island of Trinidad was 
one of the largest exporters a few years ago, but it now comes fourth 
on the list with 30,500,000 pounds. Venezuela furnishes over 20,000,- 
000 pounds of a very fine quality of cocoa, known to commerce as the 
Caracas. The other countries from which supplies are obtained are : 
Dutch Guiana, Colombia, Peru, Cuba, Haiti, Santo Domingo, Jamaica, 
Ceylon, and Java. 

In the United Kingdom the amount consumed in 1831 was only 14 of 
an ounce for each inhabitant. In 1902 it had risen to about 17 ounces 
— that is about 45,500,000 pounds. The percentage of increase since 
i860 has been much greater than that of tea or coffee. In that year 
the consumption of tea was 2.67 pounds for each inhabitant; of coffee, 
1.23 pounds; of cocoa, 2 ounces. In 1903, the consumption of tea 
was 6.03 pounds for each inhabitant; of coffee, only 12 ounces; of 
cocoa, about 17 ounces. It appears from this that in Great Britain and 
Ireland cocoa is actually taking the place of coffee, the per capita use 
of the former having increased about 750 per cent., while the per 
capita use of the latter has greatly decreased. 

In the United States the increased consumption of cocoa in recent 
years has been even more striking. The amount retained for home 
consumption in i860 was only 1,181,054 pounds, or % of an ounce for 
each inhabitant. The average annual consumption for the three years, 
1901, 1902, and 1903, amounted to 54,106,082 pounds,^ an increase in 
forty-two years of 4.481 per cent. This percentage of increase is much 
greater than the increase during the same period in the consumption of 

■These are tlie Custom House returns for the year ending December 31st. 



PRODi^CTION AXD CONSUMPTION. 9 

coffee and tea. In i860, the consumption of coffee per capita was 
5.79 pounds; in 1903 it was 10.79 pounds. The consumption of tea 
in i860 was about 131/2 ounces per capita; in 1903 it was 1.30 pounds. 
The consumption of cocoa had risen during the same period from % of 
an ounce to about 12 ounces per capita. 

With this increase of consumption has come a corresponding increase 
in the use of adulterants and the introduction of a great variety of 
dishonest methods for substituting inferior goods for those of standard 
quahty. Something has been done through local legislation to protect 
consumers, but much remains to be done in the way of securing uni- 
formity in the definition of standards and providing for a systematic and 
intelligent enforcement of the pure food laws. In some of the States 
the commissioners or other authorities having charge of the matter 
have furnished, through their annual reports, valuable information in 
regard to the quality of the various food products put upon the market. 
It is well worth noting in this connection that in the seventh and eighth 
annual reports of the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station 
(1902 and 1903) cocoa and chocolate products are analyzed and their 
food value defined in a very thorough and comprehensive manner. 
While awaiting more effective legislation to prevent the sale of adul- 
terated and misbranded goods, consumers can best protect themselves 
by taking only those articles which bear the names of well-known 
manufacturers whose products can be depended upon. 



II. 



/ 



THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 

(" Thcohroma Cacao") 

HE term " cocoa " is a corruption of '• cacao," but is almost uni- 
versally used in English-speaking countries. The cacao tree 
belongs to the natural order of Sterculiaceas, — a family of about 

41 genera and 521 species, inhabiting the warmer regions of the world. 

None of them grow naturally in our climate or in Europe, and, except- 



T 




ing the little yellow-flowered Mahernia, they are very seldom seen in 
our conservatories. 

The tirst references to the tree and its products are found in the 
accounts of the explorers and conquerors who followed Columbus. 
Their descriptions are remarkably accurate in all essential particulars. 
One of the earliest, if not indeed the very earliest, delineations of the 
tree is in a rare volume by Bontekoe.^ The engraving, which is here 

* The figure in the left of the foreground is said by Bontekoe to represent the native method of procuring fire by 
rapidly twirling a pointed stick in a groove of a piece of wood placed on the ground. 



THE COCOA TREE AXD ITS FRUIT 



II 



reproduced, represents it with its comparatively large fruits or pods 
borne on the main stem. This might be thought at first to be an error 
of the artist, but it is in fact a rude expression of one of the most 
remarkable peculiarities of the plant. As will be shown presently, 
when a fuller description is given, the fruits are, as a rule, formed 
on the older parts. The engraving shows that the cocoa tree is shel- 
tered by a larger tree of some other kind near it. This practise of 
planting a sheltering tree to shade the young cocoa tree for a time is 

still kept up wherever the plant is 
successfully cultivated. It is cer- 
tainly interesting that this point in 
cultivation, which might easily have 
been thought to be accidental or 
local, was delineated more than 
three centuries a<;o. 

The seeds of the tree are borne 
in pods, which are irregular and 
angular in shape, much like some 
forms of cucumbers, but more 
pointed at the lower extremity, and 
more distinctlv grooved. These 
pods measure in length nine inches 
to a foot, or even more, and about half as much in diameter. 
The color, when young, is green, becoming later dark vellow or 
yellowish brown. The rind is thick and tough. The pods are 
filled with closel}^ packed " beans," or seeds, embedded in a 
mass of cellular tissue, sometimes of pleasant subacid taste. The 
seeds are about as large as ordinarv almonds, whitish when 
fresh, and of a disagreeable bitter taste. When dried they become 
brown. 

The fruits are about four months in ripening ; but they appear and 
mature the whole year through. In point of fact, however, there are 




THE LU*_<)A 1 KEK. 



12 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



chief harvests, usually in early spring, but this is different for different 
countries. 

As a great many erroneous statements have been made in regard to 
the average yield of cocoa plantations, from which we draw our supplies 
of crude cocoa, we have been at some pains to procure accurate infor- 
mation on that point for a period of five years. 

Taking twelve cocoa estates in Surinam, containing 1,354 '^'^C" 
tares, or 3,385 acres, the crop during the years 1897 to 1901 
mclusive amounted to 3,672,283 kilos, or 8,079,023 pounds. The 
crops varied for the different years from 1,263,426 pounds to 2,174,639 
pounds. The average yield per acre per year was 477-^^ioo pounds. 
On the basis of 200 trees to the acre this would show an average yield 
of about 2\'-^ pounds to a tree. By actual count of seven pods taken with- 
out selection it was found 
- " ^^ '"^ ^ '''*'•' that the average number of 

beans in a pod was 38. 
In an essay (1902) on 
the cultivation of cacao, 
for the use of planters in 
the Philippines, Mr. Wm. 
S. Lyon, in charge of 
Seed and Plant Introduc- 
tion, says : 

"In Camerouns, Dr. 
Preuss, a close and well- 
trained observ^er, gives 
the mean annual yield of 
trees of full bearing age 
at 4.4 pounds. 

" Mr. Rousselot places 
the yield on the French 
Cono"o at the same riuure. 




COCOA I'ons. 



THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 



13 



In the Caroline Islands it reaches 5 pounds, and in Surinam, according 
to M. Nichols, the average at maturity is 6i/> pounds. ^ In Mindanao, 
I have been told, but do not vouch for the report, of more than ten 
'catties' (about i2i/l> pounds) taken in one year from a single tree: 
and, as there are well-authenticated instances of record, of single trees 




PODS AND LEAVES. 



having yielded as much as 30 pounds, I am not prepared to altogether 
discredit the Mindanao story." 

The following statements in relation to the cultivation of the cocoa 
tree and the curing of the fruit are taken from a report made in 1899 
by the United States Consul General at Guayaquil, who obtained his 
information largely from llie Secretary of the Guayaquil Chamber 
of Commerce. 

1 This statement does not accord witli ilie best information we have been able to obtain, namely, that the average 
yield does not exceed lY^ pounds to a tree. 



14 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



Cacao is planted from fresh seed. Four or five are put in 



each hole, which are 5 yards apart, in 
Formerly they were 2 or 3 yards apart, 
perience has shown that this method does 
not give the plant sufficient air, light, a 
nourishment. 

"The preparation of land for a 
cacao plantation consists in clearing 
small trees, underbrush, and weeds, 
the large umbrageous trees. The 
the trees is planted in corn, arrovv- 
the latter in abundance, with the 
affording shade to the delicate 
ducincj an immediate income, 
until the fifth or sixth year, 
reached a height of 8 or 
bear fruit, and enters 
\\.y. Then auxiliary 



rows 
but ex- 



ground is left 
trees, which gen 
50 yards. The 
palo prieto, 

" In the 
sionally, 
cjuick- 
the 



it of 
but leaving 
space between 
root, or plantains, 
double object of 
cacao plant and pro- 
These crops are grown 
when the cacao has 
9 feet, commences to 
upon a stage of perfect vital- 
crops cease to be planted and the 
clear, save for the umbrageous 
erallv stand at intervals of 40 or 
trees usually selected are the guabo, 
or guachepeli. 
first few years, the plant is pruned occa- 
in order that it may ' run to fruit ' more 
Iv. Manures have never been used, even where 
ground has been cultivated for over a century, 
and no irrigation is practised. The sediment 
spread over the land by the rains during the 
rainy season and the decaying vegetation appear to 
afford sufficient nutriment. In some haciendas, how- 
ever, the proprietors pile up leaves and other vegetable 
matter found in the vicinity of the tree at its foot, and 



THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 1 5 

also rub down the bark with coarse cloths to destroy the adhering 
parasites. 

"The enemies of the cacao tree are the ardillas, the monkeys, 
many species of small birds which attack the pod, and various para- 
sites, all but two of which are as yet unclassified. These two are 
the 'mosquilla' and ' mancha.' Continued vigilance protects the fruit 
from the parrots, animals, etc., but little has been done to extirpate 
the parasites of the trunk. 

" In the sixth or seventh 3'ear, the tree commences to bear, but the 
pods at this time are very small and scarcely repay the effort to gather 
them. In the tenth year, the tree reaches full maturity. It then pro- 
duces on an average i pound of dry cocoa of good quality. There 
are many trees which produce more, especially those which are isolated, 
some of which have yielded at one picking as much as 7 or 8 pounds. 
In the province of Oro (Machala), ii/l> to 2 pounds per tree is the esti- 
mated yield. The tree is in bloom during the entire year, but most of 
the blossoms fall before fructification, which occurs twice a year, the 
time varying with the locality. 

"The cacao tree grows to a height of 20 or 30 feet; its leaves are 
evergreen and lanceolated in form : the base of the main trunk attains 
a thickness of 8 to 10 inches : the bark is hard and of greenish coffee 
color. The blossom is very small, pinkish white, and waxlike in 
appearance. It grows directly out of the main trunk and branches. 
If it fructifies, the petals fall off, and from the stamens, in the course 
of from fifty to seventy days, an oblong pod is developed. This pod 
is of golden color, and contains some twenty to thirty-five grains of 
cacao, enveloped in a gummy liquid, which coagulates on exposure to 
air. The outer rind of this pod is dark or golden yellow in color and 
very hard, a sharp instrument being necessary to cut it open. Its size 
varies, according to the kind of cacao, from 8 to 15 inches long by 
from 2 to 6 inches thick. The outer rind is marked by longitudinal 
furrows, more or less pronounced, which indicate the interior arrange- 



i6 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



ment of the seeds. Both the outer rind and the gummy contents of 
the pod are porous and blacken in color as soon as picked, and in 
Ecuador are of use only to fertilize the soil upon which they are cast. 
"As soon as the pods begin to ripen, they are removed with pruning 
knives, very sharp, and attached to the ends of long poles, which are 




GROUP OF NATIVE COCOA PICKERS. 

lengthened by joints as often as required. As the twigs are very tough 
the blow with this instrument must be strong and well aimed, and the 
laborers must be experienced on account of the particular skill that is 
required and the fatigue that attends handling heavy poles sometimes 
-^o feet long, with the face continually upturned. Wherever they can 



THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 17 

be reached, the pods are cut off with a machete. They are heaped in 
piles by one set of laborers, while another cuts them open and extracts 
the contents. A sharp pruning knife is used, and the seeds are often 
damaged through carelessness. For extracting the gummy substance 
and the seeds, an implement made of a beef rib is used. 

" The drying is done on open platforms made of split bamboo and 
palms, where the cacao is exposed to the sun during three or four days, 
and, in order that it may dr}' uniformly and well, laborers are employed 
to tread it out with bare feet. If not well dried, the bean is apt to 
ferment, and if excessively dried it shrinks and, finally, turns black. 
The driers are provided with covers for protection against rain." 

The different methods of fermentation are not described here. The 
prime object of the sweating or fermentation appears to be to change 
the inside portion of the bean by absorbing into it products obtained 
from the fermenting and decomposing pulp, and where this is not 
accomplished by any of the methods, the bean is classed as unfer- 
mented, and the product is of lower value. 

The seeds are brought into the market in their crude state, as 
almond-shaped " beans," which differ in color and somewhat in texture. 
It is not uncommon to find the external surface more or less covered 
with a thin, irregular layer of attached earth, but this is almost wholly 
rubbed off during transportation. Upon the color of shell and kernel, 
the relative brittleness, the flavor, and the odor depend the market 
value of the seeds. 

The dried seeds have a papery, brittle shell, which is very smooth 
on the inside, but which on the outside exhibits, under the microscope, 
a few short hairs and round excrescences. But these are mostly lost 
by the rough handling and by the attrition of the seeds with one 
another during transportation. The kernel consists of two large cotyle- 
dons or seed-leaves, reddish gray or reddish brown, with a shining, 
oily surface, the whole crushing rather easily into a loose mass of 
fragments. The kernel, when dry, has a minute, tough, almost stony 



i8 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



radicle, which separates easily from the cotyledons. Microscopic 
examination shows that the cells of the seed-leaves contain albumen, 
oily matters, — sometimes in a crystalline condition, — crystals of an 
entirely different shape, starch, (.oloring substances in special recep- 







r;A 1 iii:i;i \('. cocoa pods. 



tacles know^n as pigment cells, and ducts with spiral markings. The 
starch grains do not have any very characteristic form or markings ; 
they are generally spherical and simple. The only peculiarity worth 
mentioning is the relative slowness with which they are acted upon b}' 
hot water and by iodine. The coloring substances are mainly of a 



THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 19 

carmine or violet color, and are distinguished by the change of shade 
when an alkali is added, becoming thereby darker. 

These are the only structural elements which a pure powder or paste 
of chocolate should show^ under the microscope. Any other substances 
must be recognized as accidental or intentional additions. 

All seeds of whatever kind contain, as a part of their substance, the 
matter of which cell walls are made, namely, cellulose. The percent- 
age differs in different seeds, in those of the chocolate plant being 
about three in the hundred. Cellulose has the same chemical composi- 
tion as starch, but its physical properties are not the same as those of 
starch : among these may be mentioned its entire insolubility in boiling 
water, whereas starch readily dissolves. 

Starch forms, on an average, 8 to 10 per cent, of chocolate seeds. 
It consists of minute spherical grains, not distinguishable from that 
found in many other kinds of seeds. Traces of gum and of other 
allied bodies are also present in the seeds. 

Albuminoids, or substances resembling, in a general way, the albu- 
men of egg, occur in chocolate seeds as they do in other seeds, and in 
a somewhat higher amount than in certain other cases in which seeds 
are used as food. The percentage rnnges from about 15 to 20, depend- 
ing on the variety. These albuminoids are compounds of nitrogen, 
and are extremely nutritious. In the seeds they occur in a readily 
assimilable form, fit for digestion. 

Cacao red occurs as a coloring matter in small amount. It is ren- 
dered dark by alkalies. 

Theobromine, the active principle of the cocoa bean, constitutes less 
than I per cent, of the weight of the seeds, but it varies greatly m 
amount in different seeds, ranging from •"•"yioo of i per cent, m some to 
a trifle over i per cent, in others. 

The ash left, on completely burning cocoa beans, is not far from 
4 per cent. Its composition is substantially that of the ash of seeds of 
other plants. 



20 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



Cocoa butter, or oil, constitutes not far from 50 per cent, of good 
cocoa beans. The oil is remarkable for its freedom from rancidity 
and its very bland character. Its uses are innumerable. 

The following averages of many analyses by leading authorities may 
be of interest : — 



UNROASTED. 

Moisture 7-n 

Oil 5178 

Theobromine 35 

Starch 5. 78 

Cellulose 31 

Other carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. 10.05 

Protein matters 15.61 

Ash 3.60 



ROASTED. 

Moisture 6.51 

Oil 4924 

Theobromine 43 

Starch 10.43 

Cellulose 3.1 

Other carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. 7.78 

Protein matters 18.33 

Ash 3.92 




III. 

EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 

THE name ''chocolate" is nearly the same in most European lan- 
guages, and is taken from the Mexican name of the drink, 
" chocolatl," or " cacahuatl." Atl is common enough in Mexican 
words, and is known to signify water. What the first part of the word 
means is not so clear. A French writer says it signifies noise, and 
that the drink was so named because it was beaten to a froth before 
being drunk. 

The Spaniards found chocolate in common use among the Mexicans 
at the time of the invasion under Cortez, in 15 19, and it was introduced 
into Spain immediately after. The Mexicans not only used chocolate 
as a staple article of food, but they used the seeds of the cacao tree as 
a medium of exchange. An early writer says : "In certain provinces 
called Guatimala and Soconusco there is growing a great store of cacao, 
which is a berry like unto an almond. It is the best merchandise that 
is in all the Indies. The Indians make drink of it, and in like man- 
ner meat to eat. It goeth currently for money in any market, or fair, 
and mav buy flesh, fish, bread or cheese, or other things." 

In the " True History of the Conquest of Mexico," by Bernal Diaz, 
an officer under Cortez, it is related that " from time to time a liquor 
prepared from cocoa and of a stimulating or corroborative quality, as 
we are told, was presented to Montezuma in a golden cup. We could 
not at the time see if he drank it or not, but I observed a number of 
jars — above fifty — brought in and filled with foaming chocolate." 

Thomas Gage, in his " New Survey of the West Indies," first pub- 
lished in 1648, gives the following interesting account of the Spanish 



EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 




and Indian ways of making and drinking chocolate some two hundred 
and fifty years ago : — 

"Now, for the making or compounding of this drink, I shall set 
down here the method. The cacao and the other ingredients must be 

beaten in a mortar of stone, or (as the 
Indians use) ground upon a broad stone, 
which they call Metate, and is only made 
for that use. But first the ingredients are 
all to be dried, except the Achiottc (an- 
notto), with care that they be beaten to 
powder, keeping them still in stirring that 
they be not burnt, or become black ; for 
if the}' be overdried thev will be bitter and 
lose their virtue. The cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first 
beaten with the anniseed, and then the cacao, which must be beaten by 
little and little till it be all powdered, and in the beating it must be 
turned round that it may mix the better. Every one of these ingredi- 
ents must be beaten by itself, and then all be put into the vessel where 
the cacao is, which you must stir together with a spoon, and then take 
out that paste, and put it into the mortar, 
under which there must be a little fire, 
after the confection is made ; but if more 
fire be put under than will only warm it, 
then the unctuous part will dry away. 
The Achiutte also must be put in in the 
beating, that it may the better take the 
colour. All the ingredients must be 
searced, save only the cacao, and if from 
the cacao the dry shell be taken, it will 
be the better. When it is well beaten 
and incorporated (which will be known by the shortnesse of it) then 
with a spoon (so in the Indias is used) is taken up some of the paste, 




CHOCOLATE-GRINDING IN THE 
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 

Prom an early engraving. 



24 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, or else without a 
spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard. 

" Those that make it into tablets put a spoonful of the paste upon a 
piece of paper (the Indians put it upon the leaf of a plaintain tree), 
where, being put into the shade (for in the sun it melts and dissolves), 
it grows hard ; and then bowing the paper or leaf, the tablet fals off by 
reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if it be put into anything of 
earth or wood, it stickes fast, and will not come off but with scraping or 
breaking. The manner of drinking it is divers ; the one (being the 
way most used in Mexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a 
tablet in hot water, and stirring and beating it in the cup, when it is 
to be drunk, with a Molinet, and when it is well 
stirred to a scumme or froth, then to fill the 
cup with hot Atolle, and so drink it sup by sup. 
Another way is that the chocolate, being dis- 
solved with cold water and stirred with the Moli- 
net, and the scumme being taken off and put 
into another vessel, the remainder be set upon 
the fire, with as much sugar as will sweeten it, 
and when it is warme, then to powre it upon 
the scumme which was taken off before, and 
so to drink it. But the most ordinary way is to warme the water very 
hot, and then to powre out half the cup full that you mean to drink ; 
and to put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably 
the water, and then grinde it well with the Molinet, and when it is well 
ground and risen to a scumme, to fill the cup with hot water, and so 
drink it by sups (having sweetened it with sugar), and to eat it with a 
little conserve or maple bred, steeped into the chocolatte. 

" Besides these ways there is another way (which is much used 
in the Island of Santo Domingo), which is to put the chocolatte into a 
pipkin with a little water, and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved, and 
then to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of 




MOLINETS." 



EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 25 

the chocolatte, and then to boyle it again iintill there comes an oily 
scumme upon it, and then to drink it. 

" There is another way yet to drink chocolatte, which is cold, which 
the Indians use at feasts to refresh themselves, and it is made after this 
manner : The chocolatte (which is made with none, or very few, ingre- 
dients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off 
the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially 
when the cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay 
aside in a little dish by itself, and then put sugar into that part 
from whence was taken the scumme, and then powre it from en high 
into the scumme, and so drink it cold. And this drink is so cold that it 
agreeth not with all men's stomachs ; for by experience it hath been 
found that it doth hurt by causing pains in the stomach, especially to 
women. 

"The third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it 
doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not be used as well in Eng- 
land as in other parts, both hot and cold ; for where it is so much used, 
the most, if not all, as well in the Indias as in Spain, Italy, Flanders 
(which is a cold countrey), tind that it agreeth well with them. True 
it is, it is used more in the Indias than in the European parts, be- 
cause there the stomachs are more apt to faint than here, and a cup of 
chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomach. 
For myself I must say, I used it twelve years constantl}^ drinking one 
cup in the morning, another yet before dinner between nine or ten of 
the clock ; another within an hour or two after dinner, and another be- 
tween four and five in the afternoon ; and when I was purposed to sit 
up late to study, I would take another cup about seven or eight at night, 
which would keep me waking till about midnight. And if by chance 
I did neglect any of these accustomed houres, I presentl}'' found my 
stomach fainty. And with this custome I lived twelve 3'ears in those 
parts healthy, without any obstructions, or oppilations, not knowing 
what either ague or feaver was." 



26 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 

Another writer of the seventeenth century ' describing the various 
products of the New World, says : — 

"But much more beneficial is the Cacao, with which Fruit New 
Spain drives a great Trade ; nay, serves for Coin'd Money. When 
they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty and a 
hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above one Cacao- 
Nut. The Trees on which this Fruit grows are divided into four ^orts, 
differing in bigness and shape : all of them are very tender, for they 
will not onl}' grow in no place, but on their usual Ground, but cannot 
endure the cold Nights Storms, or excesses of Heat; wherefore the 
Cacao-Trees which grow out of the Fruit that falls off, come to no 
perfection, except in shady and warm Valle3's ; which is also the 
reason why the Planters of New Spain plant the great Leafy Tree 
Cacaoquanthly (that is, The Mother of the Cacao's) near the Cacao- 
Tree, that it may the better grow under the Shadow thereof ; in which 
manner whole Woods are planted : In the second year it bears Fruit, 
which is first ripe in Januar}-, and again in the midst of Summer. 
Amongst the four sorts the chief est is Qiiathuitl, of an indifferent 
heighth, and full of sharp-pointed Leaves, which are fast to the Boughs 
without Stalks, and bears a great Flower of a yellowish colour, which 
falling off, leaves long, tough and hair}- Threds behind them, out of 
which grows the Cacavently, a Fruit which is oval, heavy like a Melon, 
of a Saffron-colour, of a fat and thick Juice, a bitterish, yet pleasant 
taste, and verj- cooling ; being dr3''d in the Sun it is thereby made fit 
to keep ; it is likewise highly esteem'd, because the Chocolate is made 
of the same. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters of 
Mexico, no other Drink was esteem'd but that of the Cacao ; none 
caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines every where 
in great abundance of it self. But besides the Qiiathuitl, New Spain 
hath three other sorts of Cacao-Trees, viz. Mecanal, pleasant to behold 

•America: Being the Latest, and Most Accurate Description of the New World. P>y Arnoldus Moiitanus. 
Collected by John Ogilby, 1671. 



28 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



for its heighth, large Leaves and Fruit; the next is the Xochucaual, 
which is less than the former ; and lastly, the least sort, which is call'd 
Halcacahual. The Fruit of these four sorts of Trees, though differing 
in shape, yet is all one in power and operation." 

M. Ferdinand Denis, in "La Legende du Cacahuatl," makes the 
interesting statement in regard to the preparation of choco- 

in ancient Mexico : — 

"Torquemada, 
;arned his- 




GRIXDING ROOM IX ONE OF WALTER 
BAKER & CO.'S MILLS. 



torian, and 
Thomas Gage, 
the conscientious traveler, 
agree in telling us that hot 
chocolate was an invention 
of the Casdlians. The first of these writers, who lived at the end 
of the sixteenth century, says so posidvely ; in his time it had been 
used for only a few years. 

" Would you know now what chocolate was when the learned 
Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma ' gave his receipt ? I copy it for you 
here : — 



• Colmenero de Ledesma (Antonio) Chocolata Inda Opsisculum de qualitate & Natura Cliocolacv, i2m<) 
Novimbergs, 1644. 



EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



29 



" ' Take a hundred cacao kernels, two heads of Chili or long peppers, 
a handful of anise or orjevala, and two of mesachusil or vanilla, — or, 
instead, six Alexandria roses, powdered, — two drachms of cinnamon, 
a dozen almonds, and as many hazel-nuts, a half pound of white sugar, 
and annotto enough to color it, and you have the king of chocolates.' " 

The Spaniards thus earl}- acquired a knowledge of the fruit and of 
the manner of preparing it, which they kepi sedi^' for many years. 




A MOI.DINf; ROOM IX WALTKK BAKER & COS MILLS. 



selling it very profitably as "chocollat" to the wealthy and luxurious 
classes of Europe. 

Says Brillat-Savarin, in his famous " Physiologie du Gout," " Choco- 
late came over the mountains [from Spain to France] with Anne of 
Austria, daughter of Philip III., and queen of Louis XIII. The 
Spanish monks also spread the knowledge of it by the presents they 
made to their brothers in France. It is well known that Linneeus 
called the fruit of the cocoa tree theobroma^ ' food for the gods.' The 
cause of this emphatic qualification has been sought, and attributed by 



30 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



some to the fact that he was extravagantly fond of chocolate ; by others 
to his desire to please his confessor ; and by others to his gallantry, a 
queen having first introduced it into France. 

" The Spanish ladies of the New World, it is said, carried their love 
for chocolate to such a degree that, not content with partaking of it 
several times a day, they had it sometimes carried after them to church. 
This favoring of the senses often drew upon them the censures of the 
bishop ; but the Reverend Father Escobar, whose metaphysics were as 

subtle as his morality 
w a s accommodating, 
declared, formallv, that 
a fast was not broken 
bv chocolate prepared 
with water : thus wire- 
drawing, in favor of his 
penitents, the ancient 
adage, ^Liquiduni non 
frail git jejuni am.' " 

Chocolate appears 
to have been highly 
valued as a remedial agent by the leading physicians of that day. 
Christoph Ludwig Hoffmann wrote a treatise entitled '*Potus Choco- 
late," in which he recommended it in man}^ diseases, and instanced the 
case of Cardinal Richelieu, who, he stated, was cured of general 
atrophy by its use. 

The earliest intimation of the introduction of cocoa into England is 
found in an announcement in the Public Advertiser of Tuesday, June 
i6, 1657 (more than a hundred and thirty years after its introduction 
into Spain), stating that "In Bishopsgate Street, in Qiieen's Head 
Alley, at a Frenchman's house, is an excellent West India drink, called 
chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time : and 
also unmade, at reasonable rates." 




TOOLINCt KOO.M. AVALTKR r.AKER & CO S .MlLi. 



EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



31 



Two years later, in the Mcrciirms Polittcus for June, 1659, ^^ ^^ 
stated that " Chocolate, an excellent West India drink, is sold in Queen's 
Head Alley, in Bishopsgate Street, by a Frenchman who did formerly 
sell it in Grace Church Street and Clement's Churchyard, being the 
first man who did sell it in England ; and its virtues are highly extolled." 

A book written in the time of Charles II., entitled "The Indian 
Nectar, or a Discourse Concerning Chocolate, etc.," says the best kind 
can be purchased of one Mortimer, " an honest though poor man, liv- 
ing in East Smithfield," for 6s. 8d. per pound, and commoner sorts 
for about half that price. 

About the beginning of the eighteenth century chocolate had become 
an exceedingly fashionable beverage, and the cocoa tree was a favorite 
sign and name for places of public refreshment. Cocoa and chocolate 
are frequently mentioned in contemporary literature ; and among others 
Pope, in his "Rape of the Lock," alludes to it; the negligent spirit, 
fixed liked Ixion, — 

" In fumes of burning chocolate shall glow, 
And tremble at the sea that froths below. 




MILTON LOWER AULLS LN 1822 — FROM MODEL. WALTER HAKER & CO.'S 
MILL ON THE RIGHT. 

Chocolate was first manufactured in this country in 1765, in a mill on 
the Dorchester side of the Neponset River, at a point long known as 
Milton Lower Mills. Fifteen years later the plant came into the posses- 
sion of 'Dr. James Baker, and the small beginning then made of a new 
industry has developed into the world-famous manufacturing establish- 
ment known as Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., of which some account is 
<riven farther on. 



32 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 

The first notice of the sale of cocoa and chocolate in this country 

appears in the Boston Gazette and Country Journal of March 12, 

1770, as follows: — 

"TO BE SOLD BY 

JOHN BAKER 
At his Store in Back Street a few Bags of 
the best Cocoa ; also choice Chocolate by 
the Hundred or Smaller Quantity." 
The following from the Essex Gazette, of June 18, 177 1, contains 
the first public notice of the manufacture of chocolate : 

"AMOS TRASK, 
At his House a little below the Bell-Tavern in 
DAN VERS, 
Makes and sells CHOCOLATE, 
which he will warrant to be good, and takes 
Cocoa to grind. Those who may please to 
favour him with their Custom may depend 
upon being well served, and at a very cheap 
Rate." 
Two years later the Boston Gazette and Country Journal (April 5, 
1773) contained the following notice : — 

"CHOCOLATE 
TO BE SOLD BY JOSEPH MANN, 
choice Chocolate made by himself, and 
Warranted pure, likewise good Cocoa 
Shells, at his House in Water-Street, next 
Door to Ebenezer Torrey Baker, at the 
Sign of the Wheat Sheaff near Oliver's - 
Dock, Boston. — Also Cocoa taken in to 
Grind : Any gentlemen who will please to 
favour him with their Custom may depend 
on having it done with Fidelity and Dis- 
patch." 



EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



Z7> 



Crude cocoa was brought to the American market at that time by the 
Massachusetts traders, especially the Gloucester fishermen who re- 
ceived it in exchange for the fish and other articles which they shipped 
to the West Indies and Central and South America ; and the direct 
connection with the producers, thus early established, was maintained 
until recent years. 

In giving an accoimt of the manufactures in Boston, in 1794, J. L. 
Bishop, in his " History of American Manufactures," says : "Choco- 
late had long been made from the large quantities of cocoa obtained 
in the West India trade, and had been greatly expedited by recent 
inventions. The chocolate mill of Mr. Welsh, at the North End, 
could turn out 2,500 lbs. daily." 




^^■jiifrwnia^w- 



IV. 



A PERFECT FOOD. 

BARON VON LIEBIG, one of the best-known writers on 
dietetics, says : — 
"Chocolate is a perfect food, as wholesome as it is delicious, a 
beneficent restorer of exhausted power ; but its quality must be good, 
and it must be carefully prepared. It is highly nourishing and easily 
digested, and is fitted to repair wasted strength, preserve health, and 

prolong life. It 
agrees with dry tem- 
peraments and con- 
valescents ; w i th 
mothers who nurse 
their children ; with 
those whose occupa- 
tions oblige them to 
undergo severe men- 
tal strains; witli 
public speakers, and 
with all those who 
give to work a portion of the time needed for sleep. It soothes both 
stomach and brain, and for this reason, as well as for others, it is the 
best friend of those engaged in literary pursuits." 

Dr. Edward Smith, LL.B., F.R.S., in his valuable work on 
" Foods," for the International Scientific Series, says : — 

"These well-known substances (cocoa and chocolate) are valuable 
foods, since they are not only allied to tea and coffee as respiratory ex- 
citants, but possess a large quantity of fat and other food materials. . . ." 




STORACIC OF COCOA I'.ICANS. 



A PERFECT FOOD. 



35 




IXSI'ECTIOX Ol' r.F.ANS, 



After (TivincT an analysis of the cocoa bean, he goes on to sav : " This 
substance in its action is less exciting to the nervous system than tea or 
coffee, and at the same 
time it contains a much 
larger proportion of 
nutritive material. 
Moreover, its flavor is 
not lessened by the 
addition of milk, so that 
it can be boiled in milk 
only, and thus produce a 
most agreeable and nu- 
tritious food. There are, therefore, many persons, states of system, and 
circumstances in which its use is to be preferred to either tea or coffee." 

Brillat-Savarin, from whose work we have already quoted, says time 
and experience have shown "that chocolate, carefully prepared, is an 
article of food as \vholesome as it is agreeable ; that it is nourishing, 
easy of digestion, and does not possess those qualities injurious to 
beauty with which coffee has been reproached ; that it is excellently 
adapted to persons who are obliged to a great concentration of intellect 
in the toils of the pulpit or the bar, and especially to travelers ; that it 
suits the most feeble stomach : that excellent effects have been pro- 
duced by it in chronic complaints, and that it is a last resource in affec- 
tions of the pylorus. 

" Some persons complain of being unable to digest chocolate ; others, 
on the contrary, pretend that it has not sutHcient nourishment, and that 
the effect disappears too soon. It is probable that the former have 
only themselves to blame, and that the chocolate which they use is of 
bad quality or badly made ; for good and w^ell-made chocolate must 
suit every stomach which retains the slightest digestive power. 

"In regard to the others, the remedy is an easy one : they should 
reenforce their breakfast with a ^atc, a cutlet, or a kidney ; moisten 



36 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 




ASSORTING BEANS. 



the whole with a good 
draught of soconusco 
chocolate, and thank 
God for a stomach of 
such superior activity. 
" This gives me an 
opportunity to make an 
observation whose ac- 
curacy may be de- 
pended upon. 

"After a good, 
complete, and copious 
breakfast, if we take 

in addition a cup of well-made chocolate, digestion will be perfectly 

accomplished in three hours, and we may dine whenever we like. Out 

of zeal for science, and by dint of eloquence, I have induced many 

ladies to try this experiment. They all declared, in the beginning, that 

it would kill them ; but they have all thriven on it, and have not failed 

to crlorifv their teacher. 

" The people who make constant use of chocolate are the ones w^ho 

enjoy the most steady health, and are the least subject to a multitude of 

little ailments which destroy the 

comfort of life ; their plumpness is 

also more equal. These are two 

advantages which every one may 

verify among his own friends, and 

wherever the practise is in use." 
M. Boussingault, a member of 

the French Institute, in an inter- '""^^ 

esting paper printed in the ^^An- 

nales de Physique et du Chimie,''^ 

says : — 

FINAL PROCESS OF SELECTION. 




A PERFECT FOOD. 



37 




IKX OLA'l 



*' Chocolate contains 
a very large proportion 
of nutritive matter in a 
small volume. In an 
expedition to a great 
distance, where it is im- 
peratively necessary to 
reduce the weight of 
the rations, chocolate 
offers undeniable ad- 
vantages, as I have had 
frequent occasions to notice. Humboldt rccalb whaf^^BB^ said 
with reason, that in Africa rice, gum, and butter enable men to cross 
the desert ; and he adds that, in the New World, chocolate and corn 
meal render the plateaus of the Andes and the vast, uninhabited forests 
accessible to man. 

" In Central America, when they organize a river expedition, or 
traverse the forests, they prepare chocolate for provision with eighty 
parts of cocoa to twenty of coarse sugar, the composition being as fol- 
lows : — 

Sugar 200 

Butter 410 

Albumen , . 100 

Phosphates and Salts . . 
Other Matter .... 



. . , .... .30 

. . . 260 

1,000 
"Each man receives 60 grams (about 2 ounces) of this chocolate 
per day, in which there are 12 grams of sugar, 26 of butter, and 6 
of albumen. It is a useful addition to the ration formed of beef slightly 
salted and dried in the air, of rice, of corn biscuit, or of cassava muffins. 
"The infusion of tea, mate (Paraguay tea), and coffee are not, of 
course, to be considered as food. The amount of solid matter in them 
is very slight, and their effects are due only to their alkaloids. 



38 



COCOA ANJ) CHOCOLATE. 



"This is not true of chocolate, which is at the same time complete 
food and an active excitant, since it approaches in composition that 
model food, milk. In fact we have seen that in cocoa there is legu- 
mine and albumen, associated with fat, sugar to sustain respiratory 
combustion, phosphates, which are the basis of the bones, and — what 
milk does not have — theobromine and a delicate aroma. Roasted, 




WRAPPING ROOM, KAKER'S CHOCOLATK. 



ground, and mixed with sugar, cocoa becomes chocolate, the nutriti\-e 
properties of which astonished the Spanish soldiers that invaded 
Mexico." 

Dr. Edmund A. Parkes, F.R.S., in his " Manual of Practical Hy- 
giene, prepared especially for use in the Medical Service of the Army" 
(London, 1864), says : — 



A PERFECT FOOD. 



39 



" Although the theobromine of cocoa is now known to be identical 
with theine and caffeine, the composition of cocoa removes it widely 
from tea and coffee. The quantity of fat varies even in the same sort 
of cocoa. The ash contains a large quantity of phosphate of potash. 
The larger quantity of fat makes it a very nourishing article of diet, 
and it is therefore useful in weak states of the system, and for healthy 
men under circumstances of great exertion. It has even been com- 
pared to milk. In South America cocoa and maize cakes are used by 
travelers, and the large amount of agreeable nourishment in small bulk 




WRAPr-IXG ROOM, P.AKKR S HRKAKFAST COCOA. 



enables several da}s supplies to be easily carried. By roasting, the 
starch is changed into dextrine, the amount of margaric acid increases, 
and an empyrematic aromatic substance is formed." 

Francois Joseph Victor Broussais, a celebrated physician and mem- 
ber of the French Institute, says : — 

" Chocolate of good quality, well made, properly cooked, is one of 
the best aliments that I have yet found for vcv\ patients and for myself. 
This delicious food calms the fever, nourishes adequately the patient, 
and tends to restore him to health. I would even add that I attribute 
many cures of chronic dyspepsia to the regular use of chocolate." 



40 



COCOA AM) CHOCOLATE. 



Christoph Wilhelm Hufeland, the distinguished German physician, 
says : — 

"I recommend good chocolate to nervous, excitable persons; also 
to the weak, debilitated, and infirm ; to children and women. I have 
obtained excellent results from it in many cases of chronic diseases of 
the digestive organs." 

Dr. Karl Ernest Bock, of Leipsic, author of a '■'■TraiU de Pathologic 
ct dc Diagnostic ^^^ says : — 

"■ The nei" : - 




I 



nd peevishness of our times are chiefly attribu- 
table to tea and coffee ; 
the digestive organs of 
confirmed coffee drink- 
ers are in a state of 
chronic derangement, 
which reacts upon the 
brain, producing fretful 
and lachrymose moods. 
Cocoa and chocolate are 
neutral in their physical 
effects, and are really the 
most harmless of our 
fashionable drinks." 
Jean Baptiste Alphonse Chevalier, in his treatise on chocolate, 
says : — 

"Cocoa and chocolate are a complete food; coffee and tea are not 
food. Cocoa gives one third its weight in starch and one half in cocoa 
butter ; and, converted into chocolate by the addition of sugar, it real- 
izes the idea of a complete aliment, wholesome and eminently hygienic. 
The shells of the bean contain the same principles as the kernels, and 
the extract, obtained by an infusion of the shells in sweetened milk, 
forms a mixture at once agreeable to the taste and an advantageous 
substitute for tea and coffee." 



WRAPPING ROt^.M. 

CARACAS CHOCOLATES. 



LLA AND 



A PERFECT FOOD. 



41 




WRAPPING confectioner's CHOCOLATE. 



Mme. de Sevigne, in one of her letters to her daughter, says : — 
"I took chocolate night before last to digest my dinner, in order to 
have a good supper. I 



took some yesterday for 
nourishment, so as to be 
able to fast until night. 
What I consider amusing 
about chocolate is that it 
acts according to the 
wishes of the one who 
takes it." 

It will be observed that 
Brillat-Savarin corrobo- 
rates this statement as to 
the value of chocolate as 
an aid to digestion. 

"The cocoa bean," says M. Payen, \n '^ Dcs Substances Alimen- 
taires;' " has in its composition more nitrogen than wheat flour, about 
twenty times as much fatty matter, a considerable proportion of starch, 
and an agreeable aroma which excites the appetite. We are entirely 
disposed to admit that this substance contains a remarkable nutritive 
power. Besides, direct experience has proved this to be the case. In 
fact, cocoa, closely combined with an equal or two thirds' weight of 
sugar, forming the article well-known under the name of chocolate, 
constitutes a food, substantial in all respects, and capable of sustaining 
the strength in traveHng." 

x\nd a little farther on, he adds : — 

"Cocoa and chocolate, in consequence of their elementary composi- 
tion, and of the direct or indirect addition of sugar before their con- 
sumption, constitute a food, respiratory, or capable of maintaining 
animal heat, by means of the starch, sugar, gum, and fatty matter 
which they contain; they are also articles of food favorable to the 



42 



COCOA AXn CHOCOLATE. 



maintenance or development of the adipose secretions, by reason of 
the fatty matter (cocoa butter) belonging to them ; and, rtnally, they 
assist in the maintenance and increase of the tissues by means of their 
congeneric azote substances, which assimilate therewith." 

Etienne Francois Geoffroy, the distinguished French physician and 
professor of medicine and pharmacy in the College of France, says, in 
his " Traitc de Matierc Medicalc'' : — 

"The drinking of chocolate, especially of that made with milk, is 
recommended to persons affected with phthisis or consumption ; and, 




WRAPPING GERMAN' SWEET CHOCOLATE. 



in fact, it supplies a juice which is nourishing, substantial, and smooth, 
which deadens the acrimony of the humors; provided, as we have said, 
that the cocoa is properly roasted, and mixed with a very small quantity 
of spices." 

A French officer who served in the West Indies for a period of fifteen 
years, during the early part of the last century, wrote, as the result of 
his personal observations, a treatise on " The Natural History of Choc- 
olate, Being a Disdnct and Particular Account of the Cacao Tree, Its 
Growth and Culture, and the Preparation, Excellent Properties, and 
Medicinal Virtues of Its Fruit," which received the approbation of the 



A PERFECT FOOD. 



43 



Regent of the Faculty of Medicine at Paris, and which was translated 
and published in London, in 1730. After describing the different 
methods of raising and curing the fruit and preparing it for food (which 
it is not worth while to reproduce here, as the methods have essentially 
changed since that time), he goes on to demonstrate, as the result of 
actual experiment, that chocolate is a substance " very temperate, very 
nourishing, and of easy digestion ; very proper to repair the exhausted 




PACKING ROO>: 



CHOCOLATE. 



spirits and decayed strength ; and very suitable to preserve the health 
and prolong the lives of old men. . . . 

"There lately died at Martinico a counselor, about a hundred years 
old, who for thirty 3-ears past lived on nothing but chocolate and bis- 
cuit. He sometimes, indeed, had a little soup at dinner, but never any 
fish, flesh, or other victuals. He was, nevertheless, so vigorous and 
nimble that at fourscore and five he could get on horseback without 
stirrups. 



44 



COCOA .IXJ) CHOCOLATE. 



" Chocolate is not only proper to prolong the life of aged people, but 
also of those whose constitution is lean and dry, or weak and caco- 
ch^^mical, or who use violent exercises, or whose employments oblige 
them to an intense application of mind, which makes them very faintish. 
To all these it agrees perfectly well, and becomes to them an altering 
diet." 

Dr. Nansen, the famous Arctic explorer, in his book entitled " The 
First Crossing of Greenland "' (Vol. I., p. 58), speaks of chocolate as 
an important part of the equipment for such an undertaking. "We 
generall}^" he says, " used chocolate in the morning." Referring to 
tea, coffee, and alcoholic drinks, he says: " Stimulants of this kind, 
with the exception of chocolate, which is mild in its effect and at the 
same time nourishing, bring practicall}' no nutritive substance into the 
bod\', and the energy which one obtains in anticipation by their use at 
one moment must be paid for by a corresponding exhaustion at the 
next." 





FOUNDERS OF THE HOUSE OF WALTKK BAKER & CO. LTD. 



V. 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 

IT i^ slated, on what appears to be good authority,^ that the chocohite 
mill erected on Neponset River, in the town of Dorchester, Mass., 
in 1765, was the tirst mill of that kind established in the British 
provinces of North America. It was connected with a sawmill, operated 
bv water-power, and was regarded as a somew^hat doubtful experiment. 
Its establishment was due to the representations made by John Hannan, 
an Irish immigrant, who 
had learned the business 
of chocolate making in 
England. The new in- 
dustry prospered in a 
small way, and on the 
death of Hannan, in 1780, 
Dr. James ]5aker estab- 
lished the house which 
has continued under the 
name of Baker without interruption from that day to this. 

After the death of Dr. James Baker the business fell in the order of 
succession to his son Edmund and his grandson Walter. On the death 
of the latter in 1852, Sidnev Williams, who had been his partner for 
some years, continued in charge of the affairs until he died two years 
later (1854), when Henry L. Pierce, a relative of Walter Baker, took 
the management of the business, hrst as lessee and later as sole owner. 
During the forty-two years in which he had control he raised it from a 




OLD STONE .MILL OF WALTKK UAKLK & CO. 
(KEBUILT IN 1849.) 



' History of the Town of Dorchester, Mass., 1S57. 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER 



CO. 



47 



comparatively small, local concern to the position of the leading 
industrial enterprise of its kind on this continent. 

In 1895 the business was organized as a corporation under the 
general laws of Massachusetts; and in 1898 a special charter was 
granted by the General Court. 

The old stone mill which was erected in 1849, *^'^ ^^^ ^^^^ long occu- 
pied by the small building sliown in the engraving of 1822, has given 
place to an imposing structure of brick and stone, known as Mill No. 5. 
The plant now comprises six mills on the Dorchester and Milton sides 
of the Neponset River, containing 348,480 square feet of floor space — 
about eight acres. 

It is an interesting fact that on the spot wiiere 
the industry was first started, more than a cen- 
tury- and a quarter ago, the business has con- 
tinued and attained the highest development 
From the little wooden mill, 

■' By the rude bridge that arched the 
flood," 




NEPOXSET KIVEK FALLS. 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER 6- CO. 



49 



there has grown up one of the greatest estabhshments in the world, — 
the house of Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., — an establishment which 
competes successfull}' for prizes in all the great industrial exhibitions 
of the world, whose influence is felt in the great commercial centers, 
and whose prosperity promotes the welfare of men who labor under a 
tropical sun in the cultivation of one of the choicest fruits of the earth. 
Before proceeding to describe the methods of manufacture used in 
the Baker Mills, something should be said on the importance of select- 
ing only the best raw materials, and of treating them in the light of 
modern science and without sophistication. 



The three associated beverages, cacao, tea, and coffee, are known 
to the French as m'o- 
matic drinks. Each of 
these has its character- 
istic aroma. The fra- 
grance and flavor are 
so marked that they 
cannot be imitated by 
any artificial products, 
although numerous at- 
tempts have been made 
in regard to all three. 
Hence, the detection 
of adulteration is not a 
difficult matter. De- 
signing persons, aware of the extreme difficulty of imitating these sub- 
stances, have undertaken to employ lower grades, and by manipulation 
copy, as far as may be, the higher sorts. Every one knows how 
readily tea and coffee, for that matter, will take up odors and flavors 
from substances placed near them. This is abundantly exemplified in 
the countr}' grocery or general store, where the teas and coffees share 




A BIT OF THE OLD M1I,L 



50 COCOA AM) CHOCOLATE. 

in the pervasive fragrance of the cheese and kerosene. But perhaps 
it is not so widely understood that some of these very teas and coffees 
had been artificially flavored or corrected before they reached their 
destination in this country. 

Cacao lends itself very readily to such preliminary treatment. In a 
tirst-class article, the beans should be of the highest excellence : they 
should be carefully grown on the plantation and there prepared with 
great skill, arriving in the factory in good condition. In the factory, 
they should simply receive the mechanical treatment requisite to 
develop their high and attractive natural flavor and fragrance. Thev 
should be most carefully shelled after roasting and finelv ground 
without concealed additions. This is the process in all honest 
manufactories of the cacao products. 

Now, as matter of fact, in the preparation of many of the cacao 
products on the market a wholly different course has been pursued. 
Beans of poor quality are used, because of their cheapness, and in 
some instances thev are only imperfectly, if at all, shelled before 
Sfrindinof. Chemical treatment is relied on to correct in part the odor 
and taste of such inferior goods, and artificial flavors, other than the 
time-honored natural vanilla . and the like, are added freely. The 
detection of such imposition is easy enough to the expert, but is diffi- 
cult to the novice : therefore the public is largely unable to discriminate 
between the good and the inferior, and it is perforce compelled to depend 
almost entirely on the character and reputation of the manufacturer. 

Pure cacao-products are characterized by extreme delicacy of flavor. 
But they possess another feature of attractiveness, — a beautiful rich 
red-brown color which is so truly characteristic, that its name, 
" chocolate," has passed into many languages as denoting this charm- 
ing shade. When the cacao product is pure, this shade is not a \-ery 
dark brown, it inclines rather to a dark red. When the color of a 
cacao-product is so dark as to appear almost black it is a sure sign that 
it has been tampered with in the process of manufacture or else that 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 5 1 

the original cacao-seed was of poor quality. The uninformed person 
naturally thinks that the deeper shade means strength. This it never 
means. The black color simply shows that the manufacturer has seen 
fit to employ harmful alkaline additions at some stage of the process, 
or perhaps has preferred to color his goods artificially with coal-tar 
d3es or with the less injurious lampblack. It may be said, once for 
all, that black cacao-products must be looked upon with suspicion. 
They contain foreign matters or else they have been maltreated by 
chemicals during manufacture. Pure products of the cacao-seed pre- 
serve their fine delicacy of flavor from start to finish : black products 
are impure. Discriminating purchasers know this and recognize the 
fine reddish-brown as characteristic of a pure product, while it is only 
among those who do not give proper attention to the matter that a 
market can be found for the cacaos and chocolates to which alkalies, 
coal-tar dyes, or lampblack have given an unwholesome darkness. 

There are few articles in common use where so simple a test for 
purity exists. 

A well-known medical expert has said: "The recent tendency to 
interfere with the natural properties and constituents of such a valuable 
food as cocoa is deeply to be deplored. The removal of the fiber and 
the excess of fat is all that is necessary to produce the most perfect food 
beverage known to physiologists, and the best cocoa from the dietetic 
standpoint is undoubtedly that which is perfectly pure without addition 
of any kind whatsoever. Some manufacturers add starch or sugar in 
the mistaken idea that starch properly replaces the fat removed. But 
in no case can starch take the place of fat in a food, and the result is 
simply to lower the flesh-forming qualities of the e^oa so treated. 
Starc-lied cocoa is really a poor food, and should be avoided bv all who 
wish to get the most nutriment at the lowest cost in the form of pure 
cocoa. Malted cocoa, so much in vogue lately, is merely a fad, and 
has no actual food value over the plain article. The malt is added 
because it contains a ferment termed 'diastase,' which has the power 



52 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



of converting starch into sugar, and if the malt retained this power in 
the cup of cocoa its inclusion could be defended. But the diastase is 
killed at 175 deg. Fahr., and therefore the digestive action of the malt 
is entirely destroyed by the addition of the boiling milk or water to the 
powder or paste in the cup. Inasmuch as malt is inferior to cocoa in 
actual food value, its addition to cocoa lowers the nutritive value of the 
beverage. The use of hops is also entirel}' useless as far as practical 




;r« 



''^^ 







1 1 1 E r r J' il 1 1 ' 

-_ ^ ■>' m i— ^:SSB I * ' 

LLLL1| i'jjj 



MILL NO. 4, WALTER H.\KER & CO. LTD. 

results are concerned, for if sutiicient hops were used to be of any 
service as a tonic to the stomach, the flavor of the cocoa would be so 
influenced as to make it quite unpalatable, and as the hops have no 
nutritive value, the addition is without beneficial results. T/ie t7-catmcnt 
of cocoa -.vith potash is to be sU'ongly condemned^ as the slightly increased 
solubilitv obtained is more than cotmtcr-balanced by the injurious effects 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 



53 



o/'//ie chemical upon the system, and those -who value good health -would 
he -well advised to leave such cocoas alone. Perhaps the most novel 
departure of late years is the addition of kola to cocoa. Kola is a 
powerful drug, and contains besides caffeine other potent nerve stimu- 
lants of an unknown character. It is impossible to defend on hygienic 
grounds the addition of such a powerful drug to an article of daily con- 




THK TELPHERAGK SYSTEM — FOR THE COXVEVANCE OF CKUDE COCOA 
FROM IHI-; STOREHOUSES TO THIC ROASTIXCi ROOMS. 

sumption, and though under medical advice, and in exceptional cases, 
the increase of nerve stimulating properties which kola confers on cocoa 
may be beneficial, yet to the masses such uncontrolled drugging may 
be followed by serious consequences. Pure cocoa is so rich in good 
dietetic properties that to interfere with the normal proportions of the 
food principles is to notably decrease its nutritive value." 

The simple process by which the natives of Central and South 
America prepared a nutritious beverage from the seeds of the cocoa 



54 



COCOA AX J) CHOCOLATE 



tree has already been described. We will now refer briefly to the 
modern method of manufacture as carried on in the Walter Baker estab- 
lishment, in whicli the latest and most improved machinery and appli- 
ances are used to improve the quality and cheapen the cost of production. 
The selected cocoa beans are first cleaned from the dust and attached 
particles which have come from various sources during the fermenta- 
tion of tiie seeds. The machines for cleaning the beans are very 
ingenious and effective, removing from the seed coat every trace of 

forei<;n matter. 

The cleaned seeds 
are next roasted in the 
rnost careful manner, 
--^ every precaution being 
taken to secure a uni- 
form effect through the 
whole mass. During 
the roasting the seeds 



change color somew^hat 
tnd become more or 
less modified in taste. 
In under-roasted seeds 
the flavor is not fully 
developed, w^hile in 
over-roasted seeds the pleasant taste is likely to become greatly im- 
paired, or it may even be wholly replaced b}' a bitter and harsh flavor. 
These relations of color and taste to the roasting of the seeds make 
this portion of the manufacture one of the most delicate processes from 
beginning to end. 

By the roasting the shell becomes more readily detachable, and its 
complete removal is the next step. The crushing of the seeds into 
small fragments is easily accomplished , and this is followed b}' a 
thorough winnowing, by which the lighter shells are carried awav bv 




PRIVATE OFFICE, Mil. I. XO. 4. 



56 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



themselves, leaving the clean fragments of the roasted seeds readv for 
further manipulation. 

Among the fragments can be detected minute and very tough bits of 
tissue. These bits are the hardened germs, or rather portions of the 
germs, and these are separated from the rest by an apparatus of 
much simplicity and efficiency. 

The clean shells are usually placed at once in packages for trans- 
portation. They are extensively used for the domestic preparation 
of a wholesome and very low-priced drink. This beverage contains 
a fair proportion of the active principle of the chocolate seeds them- 
selves, and the flavor is suggestive of chocolate. 

The cleaned fragments constitute the so-called " cocoa nibs" of some 
foreign markets, and in this state they are used for the preparation of 
a simple decoction. But in this form they require to be boiled a good 
while for the development of flavor, and it is, therefore, better to have 
them treated beforehand in order to reduce the time of boiling ; and this 
is all the more necessary, since 
during the long boiling a part of 
the more delicate aroma peculiar 
to chocolate seeds is apt to be 
^lissipated. 




ENGINE AND 

liOILER ROOM, 

MILL NO. I. 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 



57 



In the preparalion of chocolate, the fragments are ground by a com- 
plicated mechanism until they attain the greatest degree of rineness, 
and constitute a perfectly homogeneous mass or paste. If it is to be 
a plain chocolate (which is put up in a blue wrapper with a yellow 
label and known as " Baker's Chocolate" or '* Premium No. i Choco- 
late"), it goes directly into the molds for shaping it. 

The molding is a noisy but interesting operation. The chocolate 




THE N'OOX HOHK. MILL NO. I. 



cannot be pressed into molds, because it sticks to the presser ; it is, 
therefore, shaken in. A plastic lump of the proper weight is placed 
in a shallow mold. A number of these molds are put into a wooden 
tray, placed upon a table, w^hich is shaken automatically, causing the 
metal molds to jump up and down in a very lively manner, and making 
as much clatter as a regiment of cavalry crossing a bridge. Every 
step of the process has to be watched with the most assiduous care. 
When the plastic mass has been shaken into the mold so as to be per- 
fectly uniform in shape and size, the pans are removed to the cooling 
room. 



58 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



If the chocolate is to be sweetened, a definite amount of the purest 
sugar, previously pulverized, is added before the molding, and the 
whole ground and commingled. If it is to be a vanilla chocolate, the 
finest qualit}' of Mexican vanilla beans (which are superior to those 
grown elsewhere) are blended with the semi-fluid mass, and formed 
in molds, as already described. 

The variations in the process are innumerable, many of them com- 
paratively unimportant when taken singly ; but to secure the best 









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tw^sML 




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f:k 


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WALTER liAKER & CO.'S TEAMS. 



results it is important that each of these slight changes should be made 
at just the right time and in the right way. 



The manufacture of breakfast cocoa is based upon two important 
factors : first, the removal of a definite portion of the cocoa-oil from 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &^ CO. 



59 



the roasted seeds; and second, increasing the miscibility of the pow- 
dered seeds bv securing the greatest practicable degree of fineness. 

While the oil of the chocolate seed is perfectly wholesome, there are 
some persons who find in the percentage natural to the seeds an amount 
too large for easv digestion. The removal of a part of this, which 
might with propriety be called an excess of the oil, was practised even 
in very early days, as is seen in the cut herewith given, taken from an 
old work on the subject. 

The method of manufacture is substantially as follows: the ground 
fragments of roasted seeds are subjected to hydraulic pressure, by 
which a certain amount of the fat is eliminated. 
The pressed mass is, in the most successful 
process, treated mechanically in such a man- 
ner as to divide and subdivide the minute 
particles until the}' are capable of passing 
through a sieve havincr several thousand 
meshes to the square inch. But such pulver- 
ization as this would, under ordinary circum- 
stances, reduce the mass to a dull and unat- 
tractive powder. In the process devised by 
the Walter Baker Company, this high degree 
of fineness is secured without any loss of 
brilliancy in the powder, — the color being 
of the bright red which is not only attractive in appearance, but when 
conjoined with the natural chocolate odor and flavor is characteristic 
of absolutely pure cocoa of the highest grade. 

It is instructive to compare such cocoa with the cocoas prepared 
by what is known as the Dutch process. The latter are prepared 
by treatment with alkaline matters, which act on the coloring sub- 
stances in the seeds, increasing the apparent effect of hot water wdien 
the latter is added. In chemically prepared cocoas, the exquisite 
natural odor and flavor of pure cocoa seeds have been diminished 




OLD PRESS FOR REMOV- 
IX(; EXCESS OF OIL. 



6o 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



or wholly lost by the severe treatment to which the materials have been 
subjected. In some cases the loss of the natural flavor is sought to 
be partiall}' supplied by the use of fragrant gums, and other matters 
wholly foreign to the natural product. 

The detection of these admixtures is generally easy. Comparison 




EXECUTTVF. OFFICES, 45 HKOAD STREET. I'.OSTON. 



with Baker's Breakfast Cocoa will reveal at once the vast superiority of 
a product which has not been treated by chemicals, but which contains 
only the finest possible powder of the best chocolate seeds freed from 
the excess of oil. The exquisite flavor and odor of the pure product 
are due wholly to the seeds themselves, since absolutely no foreign 



THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER ^ CO. 



6l 



matter is added from tirst to last. It can be used by students of the 
microscope and of chemistry as a perfect type of the highest order of 
excellence in manufacture. 

Dr. H. C. Sawyer, in his valuable little book on "Nerve Waste," 

says : — 

"Baker's Breakfast Cocoa is a light preparation which can be 
heartily recommended ; it contains only so much fat as can be digested 




" GROUP OF DEMOXSTKATORS, WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 

by almost any one, and is peculiar in not cloying or palling after a 
time as so many cocoa preparations do. Such a beverage is far more 
wholesome, and more agreeable, after one becomes used to it, than 
tea, which is much over-used " 

A recent article in the New York Polyclinic says : — 
"It is not infrequent that chemists and physicians differ in opinion 
as regards the use of certain food products and their influence upon 
tissue metabolism; but for many years they have agreed that cocoa 




\5^ 

Z ,S)tenogrdpber.s ^^^^-"^ 
' +T»nv, 1 Offices' 



THE HOUSE OE WALTER BAKER &- CO. 



63 



{theobroma cacao) exerts an influence upon the human system that is 
equaled by no other vegetable product. Careful analysis, combined 
with extensive clinical experience, has shown beyond shadow of doubt 
that it retards retrograde metamorphosis of the body tissues (tissue 
waste), is far more nutritious and less directh' stimulating to the ner- 
vous system than either tea or coffee, and when the excess of oil {oleum 




J-|<J.Mi)l'..N 1 



01 1- ILK, I'.OSTON. 



thcobromce) has been removed, exerts a distinctive beneficial influence 
upon the digestive functions. Such being the case, the use of a 
thoroughly reliable preparation of cocoa should be universally en- 
couraged, and it is the consensus of opinion among medical men as 
well as laboratory workers that the breakfast cocoa manufactured by 



64 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 



Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., not only meets the indications, but accom- 
plishes even more than is claimed for it." 



C R«H 'I 



The Dietetic and Ifygienic Gazette says : — 

"Walter Baker & Co , of Dorchester, Mass., U. S. A., have given 
years of study to the skilful preparation of cocoa and chocolate, and 
have devised machinery and systems peculiar to their methods of treat- 
ment, whereby the purity, palatability, and highest nutrient character- 
istics are retained. Their preparations are known the 
world over and have received the highest indorsements 
Ji|^ from the medical practitioner, the nurse, 

""""ll^ and the intelligent housekeeper and 
caterer. There is hardly au}^ food prod- 
uct which may be so extensively used in 
the household in combination with other 
foods as cocoa and chocolate ; but here 
again we urge the importance of purity 
and nutrient value, and these important 
points, we feel sure, may be relied upon 
OFFICE i5uiLDi\(i, noKCHESTEK. 1" Bakcr's cocoa and chocolate." 

The Dominion Medical Monthly, Toronto, Canada, says : — 
"There are on the market to-day a large number of so-called co- 
coas, all of them 'guaranteed' to be 'absolutely pure,' but many of 
them adulterated. There are few articles which physicians find as 
much use for as this preparation of the cacao nut, and one of the diffi- 
culties which medical men ha\e to overcome is to choose the pure from 
the impure, choosing the former and discarding the latter. JMany per- 
sons declare firmly that they cannot digest cocoa, this being due to a 
certain degree of oiliness present. Pure cocoa acts as a gentle stimu- 
lant, and invigorates and corrects the action of the digestive organs, 
furnishing the body with some of the purest elements of nutrition. The 




THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 



6s 



firm of Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., of Dorchester, Mass., put up one 
of the few really pure cocoas, and physicians are quite safe in specify- 
ing their brand." 

The American Homceopathist says : — 

"The need of a substitute for coffee in many nervous disorders, and 




BRANCH HOUSR OF WALTER P.AKER & CO. LTD. 
FRANKLIN AND HUDSON STREETS, NEW YORK. 

particularly where there are heart complications, has induced me to 
give special recognition to the cocoa preparations, for all are not of 
equal merit. The essentials of a proper production are found in the 
well-known cocoa made by Walter Baker & Co., of Dorchester, Mass., 
and in one or two others, but I give preference to the one named, be- 
cause it is always and everywhere obtainable and is of uniform quality. 



66 



COCOA AND CHOCOLATE 



Its usefulness is not, however, restricted. In many cases of deficient 
nutrition, it may be well prescribed as a food-drink with ever}' meal." 

The Maryland Medical Jutirnal sa3^s : — 

" Ph3'sicians have longr recognized the valuable dietary properties of 
cocoa. When obtained free from any admixture of foreign matter, its 




P.RAXCH HOUSE OK UALTEK BAKER & CO., 38 AND 40 LAKE STREET, CHICAGO. 

nutritive value cannot be overestimated, combining as it does in proper 
proportion the essentials of a perfect food — carbohydrates, albumi- 
noids, mineral matters, and the active principle, theobromine. The 
physiological effects of cocoa in certain constitutional derangements 
are well known to practitioners in general, and when no violence is 
done to the chemical properties of the different components in the 
process of preparation a product at once comforting and nutritious is 



THE HOUSE OE WALTER BAKER <2r- CO. 



67 



obtained. The wholesomeness and efficiency of the Walter Baker & Co.'s 
Cocoa is due to a peculiar process in its manufacture, which preserves 
the theobromine and nutritive portion without the use of chemicals, and 
has more than three times the strength of other preparations mixed with 
starch, arrowroot, or sugar. The long-standing reliability of this brand 
of cocoa enables physicians to prescribe it with thorough confidence in 
its highly valuable nutritive effects and full assurance of its purity and 
wholesomeness." 

The Health Magazine says : — 

'* A very large class of intelligent and right-thinking people through- 
out the world are ready to testify to the nutritive properties of 
Walter Baker & Co 's Breakfast Cocoa. The food value of this article 
has so long been known to physicians and the public that it has become 
in a great many homes a staple article of the dietary, not only for in- 
valids, but for persons in health as well." 




A DETAIL OF THE TELPHERAGE SYSTEM. 



SUGGESTIONS 



RELATIVE TO 



THE COOKING OF CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. 

BV MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS, 
Of the Massachttsetts Instiiuie of TecJmology. 

THE flavor of the cocoa bean seems to be almost universally liked, 
and the use of the various preparations made from it is con- 
stantly increasing. From tlie sweet chocolate wdth which the 
traveler now provides himself in all journeys in which the supply of 
food is doubtful either in quantity or quality, to delicate coloring and 
flavoring of cakes and ices, nearly all kinds of culinary preparations 
have benefited by the abundance of this favorite substance. 

In these forms, chocolate is used in a semi-raw state, the bean having 
been simply roasted at a gentle heat, ground and mixed with sugar, 
which holds the fat. By varjang the quantity of the chocolate to be 
mixed with the ingredients of the cake or ice, an unlimited variety of 
flavors can be obtained. 

In preparing it as a beverage for the table a mistake has been fre- 
quently made in considering chocolate mereh' as a flavor, an adjunct 
to the rest of the meal, instead of giving it its due prominence as a real 
food, containing all of the necessary nutritive principles. A cup of 
chocolate made with sujjar and milk is in itself a fair breakfast. 

There is much to be said in favor of preparations of the whole bean 
which secure all of the valuable nutrition contained in this "food for 
the gods," and rightly understood, it is possible to make them more 
important articles of diet than the}^ now are. But since the large per- 
centage of fat seems to require correspondingly large quantities of 

68 



SUGGESTIONS. 



69 



sugar to render the beverage palatable, and this very rich, sweet drink 
soon cloys if made strong enough to be nutritious, it is, fortunately, 
possible to extract the larger part of the fat without injury to the flavor 
so characteristic of chocolate. In this form, called cocoa, less sugar 
and more milk are needed, and the resulting beverage suits even 
delicate stomachs, and is yet of high food value. 

It is the object of all cooking to render raw material more palatable 
and more nutritious, and therefore more digestible. The cooking of 
cocoa and chocolate is no exception to this rule. Certain extractive 
principles are soluble onlv in water which has reached the boiling 
point: and the starch, which the seed contains, is swollen only at this 
temperature. 

Chocolate or cocoa is not properly cooked b}- having boiling water 
poured over it. It is true that as the whole powder is in suspension 
and is swallowed, its food material can be assimilated as it is when the 
prepared chocolate is eaten raw ; but in order to bring out the full, fine 
flavor and to secure the most complete digestibility, the preparation, 
whatever it be, should be subjected to the boiling point for a few 
minutes. In this all connoisseurs are agreed. 




WALTER BAKER & CO.'S STOREHOUSES, MILTON. 



Advertisement. 



ESTARLISHED 1780. 



Walter Baker & Co. Limited, 



Dorchester, Mass. 



Manufacturers of 



Pure High Grade 



Cocoa and 

Chocolate 



Preparations. 




BAKER^S BREAKFAST COCOA« 

In Yi lb. packages (tin). 12 packages in a box. 

This admirable preparation is made from selected cocoa, 
from which the excess of oil has been removed. It is 
absolutely pure, and it is soluble. It has more than three 
times the strength of cocoa mixed with starch, arrowroot, 
or sugar, and is, therefore, far more economical, costing less 
than^one cent a cup. It is delicious, nourishing, strengthen- 
ing, easily digested, and admirably adapted for invalids as 

well as for persons in health. 

IVo alkalies or other chemicals or dyes are used in its preparation. 
Trade-mark on every package. 




BAKER^S CHOCOLATE. 

In Yi lb. cakes, 1 lb. packages, blue wrapper, yellow label. 
It is the pure product of carefully selected cocoa beans, to which nothing has 
been added and from which nothing has been taken away. Unequaled for 




smoothness, delicacy, and natural flavor. Celebrated for more than a century 
as a nutritious, delicious, and flesh-forming beverage. The high reputation and 



constantly increasing sales of this article have led to imitations on a very exten- 
sive scale. To distinguish their product from these imitations Walter Baker tS: 
Co. Ltd. have enclosed their pound packages in a new envelope or case of stiff 
paper, different from any other package. The color of the case is the same 
shade of deep blue heretofore used on the Baker packages, and no change has 
been made in the color (yellow) and design of the label. On the outside of 
the case, the name of the manufacturer is prominently printed in white letters. 
On the back of every package a colored lithograph of the trade-mark, " La Belle 
Chocolatiere," sometimes called the Chocolate Girl, is printed. Vigorous pro- 
ceedings will be taken against any one imitating the package. 

Tradc-marfc on every package. 



BAKER^S VANILLA CHOCOLATE, 

In yi lb. and \ lb. packages, 
is guaranteed to consist solely of choice cocoa and sugar, flavored with pure 
vanilla beans. Particular care is taken in its preparation, and a trial will con- 
vince one that it is really a delicious article for eating or drinking. It is the 




best sweet chocolate in the market. Used at receptions and evening parties in 
place of tea or coffee. Our choice Recipe book (sent free) contains a valuable 
recipe for making the Chocolate with Whipped Cream. 

Trade-mark on every package. 




CARACAS SWEET CHOCOLATE. 

In % lb. packages and 6 lb. boxes. 
Unequaled for smoothness, delicacy, and flavor. The . most 
delicious and healthful article of food that can be carried by 
golfers, bicyclists, tourists and students. 

Trade-mark on every package. 



CENTURY CHOCOLATE. 

In }i lb. packages. 
A fine vanilla chocolate for eating or drinking. Put up in very artistic wrappers. 
Trade-mark on every package. 



GERMAN SWEET CHOCOLATE, 

In X and }i lb. packages. 



'Gt«**A<v 



>-*^frCH0COl>^V 



is one of the most popular sweet chocolates sold any- 
where. It is palatable, nutritious, and healthful, and 
is a great favorite with children. 

Beziurre of imitations. The geniiiue is sfafnped " S, 
German, Dorchester, Mass?'' 

Trade-mark on every package. 



CRACKED COCOA, OR COCOA NIBS . 

In >2 and \ lb. packages and in 6 and 10 lb. bags. 

This is the freshly roasted bean cracked into small pieces. It contains no ad- 
mixture, and presents the full Havor of the cocoa bean in all its natural fragrance 
and purity. When properly prepared, it is one of the most economical drinks. 
Dr. Lankester says cocoa contains as much flesh-forming matter as beef. 

Trade-mark on every package. 



CACAO PES AZTEQUES. 

In boxes, 6 lbs each ; Yz lb bottles. 

A compound formerly known as Racahout des Arabes ; a most nutritious prepa- 
ration ; indispensable as an article of diet for children, convalescents, ladies, 
and delicate or aged persons. It is composed of the best nutritive and restor- 
ing substances, suitable for the most delicate system. It is now a fiU'orite 
breakfast beverage for ladies and young persons, to whom it gives freshness and 
embonpoint. It has solved the problem of medicine by imparting something 
which is easily digestible and at the same X\vc\e. free frofn the exciting qualities of 
coffee and tea, thus making it especially desirable for nervous persons or those 
afflicted with weak stomachs. 

It has a very agreeable flavor, is easily prepared, and has received the com- 
mendation of eminent physicians as being the best article known for convales- 
cents and all persons desiring a light, digestible, nourishing., and strengthening 
food. 

Trade-mark on every package. 



SOLUBLE CHOCOLATE. 

This is a preparation for the special use of druggists and oliiers in making 
hot or cold soda. It forms the basis for a delicious, refreshing, nourishing, and 
strengthening drink. 

It is perfectly soluble. It is absolutely pure. It is easily made. It possesses 
the full strength and natural flavor of the cocoa bean. No chemicals are used 
in its preparation. 

The directions for 7nakiiig one gallon of syrup are as follows : — 

8 ounces soluble chocolate. 
83^ pounds white sugar. 
2 14 quarts water. 

Thoroughly dissolve the chocolate in hot water, then add the sugar, and heat 
until the mixture boils. Strain while hot. After it has become cool, vanilla 
may be added if desired. 

The trade is supplied with I, 4, or 10 lb. decorated canisters. 
Trade mark on every package. 



CHOCOLATES FOR CONFECTIONERS^ USE, 

These chocolates have long been the synonym iox purity and excellence. To 
meet the requirements of the trade, both light and dark chocolate coverings 
have been prepared from selected cocoas, which, on account of their unifortnity, 
purity^ and favor, are favorite brands with all the leading confectioners. 



VANILLA TABLETS, 

These are small pieces of chocolate, made from the finest nuts, and done up 
in fancy foil. The packages are tied with colored ribbons, and are very attract- 
ive in form and delicious in substance. They are much used for desserts and 
collations, and at picnics and entertainments for young people. They are 
strongly recommended by physicians as a healthy and nutritious confection for 

children. 

Trade-mark on every package. 



COCOA BUTTER. 



In Yz lb. cakes. 



One-half the weight of the cocoa bean consists of a fat called " cocoa butter," 
from its resemblance to ordinary butter. It is considered of great value as a 
nutritious, strengthening tonic, being preferred to cod-liver oil and other nau- 
seous fats so often used in pulmonary complaints. As a soothing application to 
chapped hands and lips, and all irritated surfaces, cocoa butter has no equal, 
making the skin remarkably soft and smooth. Many who have used it say they 
would not for any consideration be without it. It is almost a necessary article 
for every household. 

Trade-mark on every package. 



COCOA SHELLS. 

In J lb. packages. 

Cocoa shells are the thin outer covering of the beans. They have a flavor 
similar to but milder than cocoa. Their very low price places them within the 
reach of all ; and as furnishing a pleasant and healthy drink, they are con- 
sidered superior to tea and coffee. 

Packed only in i lb. papers, with our label and name on them. 

Trade-mark on every package. 



Forty-three highest awards have been received from in- 
ternational and local expositions in Europe and 
America durins^' the last hftv-two vears, of which the 
following are the most noteworthy. 

World's Fair, St. Louis (Grand Prix on all Cocoa 

and Chocolate and Gold Medal on Installation) . . 1904 

Dominion of Canada Indistriai. Exposition . . 1903 

Pan American Exposition, Buffalo . . . . , 1901 

Expositions Uxivrrselle, Paris . . . 186S, 1878, 1900 

Trans-Mississippi, Omaha 1898 

Cotton States and International Exposition, 

Adanta 1895 

Midwinter and International Exposition, San 

Francisco 1894 

World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago . . . 1893 

International Fair, Detroit 1892 

Exposition Provinciale, Qiebec 1891 

Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Asso- 
ciation, Boston 1853, 1878, 1890 

World's Industrial and Cotton Centennial, 

New Orleans 1884 

Southern Exposition, Louisville 1S83 

Centennial Exposition, Philadelphia 1876 

International Exposition, Vienna . . . . . 1873 

Industry of all Nations, New York .... 1853 

Franklin Institute, Philadelphia 1S52 




Reduced facsimile of an attractive booklet of sixty-four pages, 
with colored illustrations, sent/r.?^ to any applicant. Address 
WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD., 

Dorchester, Mass. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



DDDm3aaasi 



